Many of Thailand’s beautiful islands have been taken over by a particular kind of tourist, one that seeks out beautiful scenery, perfect weather, ideal beaches and, most important, a good internet hub and then use them as their workplaces. These so-called digital nomads leverage technology in order to work remotely and live an independent and nomadic lifestyle, preferably in locations that provide all or most of the above advantages.
They are often followed or accompanied by another type of tourist: Think running around shirtless to flaunt those perfect abs and tribal tattoos. Think all-night beach parties. Think loud. This second type of tourist is often responsible for driving the nomads to find new places in which to do their coding or devise a new strategy for their Smart Toilet start-up.
So it goes. The world changes, and technology has accelerated the pace of these changes. But the island of Koh Lanta has not yet been discovered by either of these tourist types, though it’s probably only a matter of time before the nomads of, say, Koh Phangan have had their fill of tired electronic music and entertainment-fueled beach parties and look for a more relaxed venue in which to make their millions.
Dancing under the stars! Koh Lanta brings people together for an unforgettable night of music, lights, and beachside fun © Getty Images
Well, Koh Lanta is much more relaxed. There are undoubtedly some nomads on the island, but they buy into the general desire to keep the island’s chill. Also, there are few good coworking spaces on the island, for the moment. As opposed to most digital nomad hangouts, Koh Lanta is popular with families because it is quiet, beautiful and safe.
That last word, safe, is appropriate because the coronavirus epidemic hit Thai tourism very hard. Tourists have now started coming back to the country, but from what I hear, there are fewer people than before the pandemic. This also means that, as of November 1, there are no Covid requirements to enter the country, so you will not need to show proof of vaccination or an ATK test on arrival.
When to Go
Thailand has two off-seasons, March to July, which is hot and muggy, and July to October, which is monsoon season and there is, as you can imagine, lots of rain. If you don’t mind hot and muggy – and by hot I mean an average temp of 30-34° Centigrade (86-93°F) – then go from March to July. There will be fewer tourists, so that hotels and food will be cheaper. And, especially after April, there might be the occasional shower or two, just to cool things off.
There are people who go during monsoon season, mostly college students, but they usually stay longer and put up with closed roads, canceled tours and other potential monsoon hazards.
How to Get There
The best way to get to Koh Lanta from Europe is to fly into Krabi, then take a bus and a ferry or private car or a public minivan. In choosing which flight to take, you will have a choice between time and money; that is, you will have to decide how much money you want to spend to reduce the time of your flight.
If you’re on a tight budget, your cheap flight could involve as many as four stopovers and take about 24 hours – and up to 51! Your mission, should you accept it, is to find the best one-stop flight that will not kill your budget. My suggestion is to fly from Prague, where surprisingly inexpensive 14- to 16-hour flights are available to Krabi at nearly half the price found elsewhere.
Of course, you’ll have to find an inexpensive way to get to Prague from wherever you live. Still, the combination of minimal time spent in the air and low cost makes Prague a worthwhile option. (And if you haven’t been to Prague yet – and why the hell not? – here’s your chance to see what you’ve been missing.)
From Krabi Airport, the most reliable way to get to Koh Lantais to book a private transfer in advance, via road and car ferry, or to book a private taxi at the airport. There are also public air-conditioned minivans that will take you from the airport to Koh Lanta with up to 14 other people. Book it in the Arrivals hall, but remember that the last of them leaves at 4 p.m.
Setting sail to paradise—enjoy scenic views as you ferry across crystal-clear waters toward the island of Koh Lanta © Getty Images
You can also go by bus or private taxi from Krabi Airport to the Krabi Klong Jilad Pier, where you get the ferry to Koh Lanta. After you’ve purchased your flight tickets, check the Krabi Airport to Koh Lanta ferry timetables and book tickets online. Do the online research before you go and then again choose the best combo of convenience and cost.
There used to be an express transfer, via speedboat, from Krabi Airport to Koh Lanta that took only about an hour and a half. But it has been shut down due to the coronavirus epidemic. Check online to see if it has been started up again, as all other Covid restrictions have been canceled. If so, decide if the extra cost is worth the few hours saved.
Where to Stay
First some geography. The island is official called Koh Lanta Yai, meaning ‘big Koh Lanta’ (there is also Koh Lanta Noi, ‘small Koh Lanta’), and it is the largest of some four dozen islands that make up the Koh Lanta archipelago. If you want a truly chill holiday, I recommend that you head to the south of the island. The north has more tourists, more restaurants and more bar action; in the south you get much more chill for your buck. The south is also more beautiful, has the best beaches and the most interesting town on the island, Lanta Old Town.
There are many budget hotels and resorts on the island, and if you go in the off-season you will even be able to bargain a little. I went to Koh Lanta during the off-season and bargained a cheap cabin at a fairly fancy resort.
How to Get Around the Island
There is no public transportation on Koh Lanta, only tuk-tuks, which are motorcycles with covered sidecars and can be pricey if you use them a lot. The best way to get around is to rent a motorcycle or motor scooter. The roads are pretty good, though in a place where it rains about four months out of the year, it’s always wise to watch for potholes, especially on roads close to the coast. Definitely wear a helmet, both for safety and to prevent sunstroke.
Exploring Koh Lanta like a local! Renting a scooter offers the freedom to discover hidden gems around the island © Getty Images
You might want to stay at a place that is within walking distance of a beach, and then hire a tuk-tuk when you wish to see a specific site or travel north for some night action. You can also rent a car on the island. If that’s what you want to do, reserve before you get there.
What to Do When You’re There
Take a nap: You must be exhausted from the trip.
Walk Around: Feeling better? Cool. Take a little walk. If you’re near a beach, go for a swim. Ask at you hostel or resort where to rent a motorbike or scooter, ask fellow travelers where they’ve been and what’s worth seeing. There’s no rush; this is the first day of the rest of your holiday, so take it easy.
If you’re in the south and you are into marine life, a visit to the Mu Ko Lanta National Park is a must. It consists of 16 major islands and about 20 km² (8 miles2) of rainforest. Other islands are covered with mangrove forest.
Nature at its finest—Mu Ko Lanta National Park’s trails, cliffs, and coastline make it a must-visit for outdoor enthusiasts © Getty Images
The main attractions in the park are white beaches, hiking trails, coral reefs, some truly awesome caves, as well as sea level caves that can be explored by kayak.
If you’re into snorkeling or scuba diving, the smaller islands in the park offer fascinating marine life and coral reefs. You can also book tents to camp out in the park, if that’s your thing. It’s not mine.
Beaches, beaches, beaches
But, let’s face it, you’re on Koh Lanta for the beaches and, as I’ve already said, the most beautiful and least crowded beaches are in the south – beginning with the least crowded off them all, Nui Bay. There are no parking facilities here, so take your scooter or a tuk-tuk. This may be the perfect beach for swimming, especially in the low season. And, as a bonus, on your way down to the sand, you might encounter some monkeys.
Don’t monkey with the monkeys! They don’t want to be bugged or bothered. They might bite you, which means an expensive – and mandatory! – rabies procedure. So don’t try to pet them or give them food. If they want your edibles, they’ll steal them, so keep the food covered or otherwise hard to get at. There is a small place on the beach that serves a basic menu (for you, not the monkeys).
A curious monkey encounter! Koh Lanta’s playful monkeys are cute but best admired from a safe distance © Getty Images
Kantiang Bay, also known as Bakantiang Beach, has several times been voted Thailand’s most beautiful beach. It’s pretty long, so that you’re never cheek-to-cheek with strangers. It’s much less crowded and noisy than the more popular beaches in the north of the island, but still has everything you will need close by, such as ATMs, places that rent scooters and restaurants and bars.
And if you want some nightlife, there are decent bars on the beach and in the village. And theWhy Not Bar,right on the beach, has live music and fire show.
Finally, further south you’ll find Bamboo Beach, which has white sands and a green rainforest background. It’s the last beach before you get to the Mu Koh Lanta National Park (though Maiphai Bay is also called Last Beach). But the actual last beach is in the National Park, so that Bamboo Beach is actually the last free beach. Got that?
Unwind on serene Bamboo Beach, where soft sands and gentle waves create the perfect tropical escape © Getty Images
Bamboo Beach is quiet and gorgeous and a wonderful place to relax and swim. Early morning and late afternoon are the best times, because you’ll have the place pretty much all to yourselves. It’s also one of the few beaches where you can snorkel during the dry season. But wear some shoes for the water because there are rocks.
Adventure and Culture Beyond the Beaches
The Khao Mai Kaew Cave is located in the center of the island, a little above the Old Town. The easiest way to get to it is by scooter or car. Just turn off the tarmac road towards Lanta Elephant Sanctuary and drive a little farther into the jungle.
Before entering the trail leading to the cave, there is an information booth where you pay an entrance fee and wait for your guide. You need a guide because the cave is quite a trip. The jungle trail leading is already pretty hairy, slippery in spots and with ropes and ladders to climb. The walk to the cave takes about 30 minutes.
Step into the unknown at Khao Mai Kaew Cave, a natural marvel with winding passages and fascinating rock formations © Getty Images
The cave is a real adventure, with some narrow spaces and lots of rope ladders to climb – the entrance itself is narrow – but it is a definite must-see. It’s got bats and stalactites and weird frogs. Also, it is dark, slippery and muddy, so wear appropriate clothing as well as sturdy shoes. NB: The cave is probably a bit too difficult for kids six years old and younger. Also, don’t go during the monsoon season, for obvious reasons.
The Lanta Elephant Sanctuary is in the same general area of the caves, in the center of the island, and was one of the great events of my visit. There are several programs you can buy – it’s for a great cause – and they all include feeding and swimming with the elephants, who are really, really cool.
Making a splash! Two elephants enjoy a refreshing dip at the Lanta Elephant Sanctuary, a haven for rescued elephants © Getty Images
The Khlong Chak Waterfall isn’t spectacular, but simply peaceful and very nice to look at. And there is a cave nearby. The trek to and from is not stressful, though it can be muddy and you have to cross a river. All in all, a nice way to spend a couple of hours, if you like rainforests and walking.
I definitely recommend a visit to the‘Sea Gypsy House,’ which is located on the southeast coast, near a Sea Gypsy village. The Sea Gypsies (aka Chao Ley) are nomadic boat people of Indo-Malay origin who have been living on Koh Lanta for more than 500 years.
Today, like all ancient and unique cultures, they are having a hard time preserving their traditions in the face of global change. The museum serves both as an educational center for visitors and a place for the Sea Gypsies to make jewelry and traditional musical instruments.
Koh Lanta Noi (as opposed to Koh Lanta Yai, where you’re staying) is the smaller of the two major islands and is slowly starting to develop some tourist facilities. The reason to visit is that the indigenous lifestyle and traditional houses can still be seen there. A bridge connects Lanta Noi with Lanta Yai, so just pick a mode of travel to get there and back.
Experience the peaceful side of island life on Koh Lanta Noi, with quiet roads and breathtaking scenery all around © Getty Images
Finally, one-day or half-day boat trips to nearby islands, such as to Koh Rok and Koh Haa, can be purchased on the island. Koh Rok Nai and Koh Rok Noi are small, rugged and mostly unspoiled islands some 30km (18 miles) south of Koh Lanta. They have marvelous coral reefs, beautiful white-sand beaches and a restaurant. That’s it. The islands of Koh Haa are great for snorkeling. Lots of other day trips can be hired on-site or online.
Or do nothing at all except hang out on a beach with a book, a towel and a cool drink. Doing nothing at all for a few weeks has become a rare activity in our hyper-tech world.
Not Quite Paradise But….
As far as I know, there are no paradises left in the world, in any case none that offer comfortable accommodation and inexpensive means of getting there. But Koh Lanta, which is pretty easy to get to and has lots of comfortable rooms, is pretty paradisical. You could spend four or five days on the island, and then travel to other places in Thailand or stay for two, three or even four weeks (highly recommended) and come home relaxed and feeling yourself again in your new tan skin. That just may be the ultimate luxury in today’s world.
